Simon quick question. I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. I would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it I would be grateful. With a virtually unlimited choice of fabrics and style, there is no limitation except your imagination. Henry Poole etc.) I think Im inclined to forego my preferences in that case! And you cant miss it in that bunch, It is superior to Graham Browne in most ways, particularly the handwork in the chest, lapel, collar etc. If youve seen an example you like from either, however, then go for it. I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. This looks perfect! We decided to offer a hand-tailoring scheme, so John [McCabe] flew out to India and began to train local craftspeople to a Savile Row standard., The author in his corduroy suit and Donegal overcoat commissioned from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Im looking forward to stopping by! In my case, a long body and short legs! Size given is an estimate. Thank you very much for all your great advice! Or are they at a much higher price point than W&S? I dont have the cloth number, but I can get it. Thank you for getting back to me. It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. (In my case I am interested in Connock & Lockie, Lambs Conduit Street but I am open to other suggestions..). Many have looked at his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices. I have checked them out however note that: Yes, shes been a cutter for about 10 years. Yes, I would recommend them for a first suit. Did the tailoring being done on the subcontinent mean that the suit took longer to make compared to their S. Row Bespoke? Is it possible to request a little bit less drape from W&S? Full disclosure: I did weigh 6kg more when I ordered the suit than I did at the first fitting. At Maison Bonnet, for example, the process would be a lot more involved. "Artisan of the Year 2021" - Permanent Style I wouldnt prioritise that over a colour of cloth I preferred, for example. Hi Simon, how does this classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing? This kind of service level is something that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings. This is a price bracket that most of your readers could stretch to and so we need more of this from yourself . Yes, for the first-timer expectations can certainly be too high, which was the case for me. The real benefits of bespoke are in the long term, for example when you have gone through it once or twice, and know exactly what you want and what to ask about during the sessions. (And which?). At this stage of your life, I wouldnt stretch to one of the others. P.S. Important stitching unfinished and then came undone. In addition, the fitting of the trousers was really quite poor, yet the stand-in fitter (John was away) pushed me hard that they were fine. ), That means 3-4 visits for the first suit. The result may be due to specifics in my case. I will do something longer on his system though, so I can give as many details as possible. I was wondering if you knew how prices for Saville Row Bespoke and Classic Bespoke have changed at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury since this article was written in 2016? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brand's workshop in Chennai, India. And quality is quality, no matter where its sourced. This one, or good value english tailors (for example grahame browne)? I tried them at home but was not convinced, so i went back in and saw a third fitter (not sure where they get people from when John is not available) who agreed they were too baggy, and alterations were appropriately made. One of the things you commonly say is not to change house style too much as there is a risk it might not turn out as expected, based on cutter experience, etc. If to compare, which make is most value for money? Before you raise an eyebrow, keep in mind that some of the best bespoke garments in the world come out of India, and having ordered a Classic Bespoke overcoat, suit and smoking jacket myself, Im very happy to vouch for its impressive quality. Sartoria Dalcuore and W & S; both very interesting articles. Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. Located in a charming building in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row and Conduit Street. ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. I like traditional and full, not modern and sleek. And to be honest, that suggests to me you might be overanalysing this a bit but again, raise it with the tailor and see what they say. Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour. Plus, get the exclusive Robb Report tote bag FREE. The prices are comparable. But when in 1760 Read More. Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? Interesting article. I hesitate to say Whitcomb have done something wrong, as my experience and that of others has been so good, but that sounds like the most likely conclusion. Just an idea. The brand is the brainchild of two brothers, Suresh and Mahesh Ramakrishnan, who both enjoyed long and successful corporate careers in New York City before they decided to open a tailor shop. Let me know what you think of these points, and whether this might be worth a full post at some point too. Hi Simon. 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. Id always recommend that you stick to a tailors house style as much as possible. I also liked the jetted pockets (although I thought you only liked them on tuxes). Gone for a nice navy classic worsted. Simon I live in Geneva but get over to London at least once a year sometimes up to 3 times a year although never with any great predictability. whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. Can I trust bespoke services there as I would in Napoli? Outstanding blog, Simon. hi Simon, very interesting article. I wear my suit 12 hours a day but tend to have the jacket hung up most of the time, so really its trousers that are as important to me. Simon, Because theyre made specifically for each customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits. How would you compare W&S to Steven Hitchcock based on style and quality? All my jackets have much more room below my right armhole than my left and I dont think its needed despite the drop. Simon. I have large shoulders, am tall and have a relatively slim waist, but dont feel comfortable looking bigger. They seem stylistically similar (soft w some drape), and affordable. A little drape like Henry Poole uses is fine, but not more. Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. Id pick between the two on style more than anything else. Its more about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow. Or perhaps heard anything about his work? Thanks for your advice though, its useful. Wempe Teamed Up With Boatbuilder Tim Heywood to Make Two Limited-Edition Marine Chronometers, Rimowa Unveils a New, More Organized Pilot Case for Your Next Short-Haul Trip, The Best-Dressed Men of the SAG Awards, From Eddie Redmayne to Austin Butler. In your opinion is this offering from W&S worth the extra cost over a GB suit ? I liked their house style but it indeed has more drape in the chest than I had experienced in the past. And although some of these details werent perfect on the examples I saw in the Whitcomb & Shaftesbury workrooms, this lap seam was very nicely done. The jacket theyve made me has jumped immediately into top place as both my best fitting AND most casually comfortable piece of clothing: the shoulders are just what I wanted, even softer (much softer) than in the suit jacket; there remains, despite the soft structure, a bit of English drape that I love in the chest; and really its the waist that is absolutely sublime a perfect pinch, fitting me so well between the arm holes and waist; most of all, the skirt is truly the most beautiful Ive worn in a jacket, with even the snifter-shaped patch pockets perfectly proportioned for its exquisite lines. around 3000 but entirely made by them)? I specifically dont want to blame either as certainly most clients are quite satisfied. Their sessions do include fittings. Hi Jon, Or do you think Ill not be happy with a W&S suit? Do you mind me asking what make your glasses are? Im looking forward to commissioning a suit for my wedding next March. Its Hard to Make a Custom Raincoat. if you have any other suggestions of tailors for morning wear (through word of mouth) I would be super grateful for the input Hi Simon. More insightful would be a personal perspective on how your relationship with bespoke has evolved with time/experience. Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain, my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Simonnot-Godard via Mes Chaussettes Rouges, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown, Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Edward Sexton offshore bespoke tailoring. I had suits made in both, in order to compare them. Simon are you familiar with Redmayne 1860s MTM service and, if so, between Redmaynes 1860 Acclaim MTM and W&S classic bespoke, which would be better quality? Looking forward to know your thoughts. And would the W&S offshore bespoke offering be vastly different in quality from a from a fully bespoke suit from someone like KH&L? The twist of thread is 40 - that is for mass-market shirts; the fabric with a double twist (two ply) from 80 to 160, is used for high-quality high-quality shirts. So basically I will be sad 4 days a week for a while! Jennie Adamson et al. Hi Lewis, Richard, Hi Simon Do you still recommend visiting the tailoring/shoemaking house itself, at least for initial consultation? If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away. From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. You described some English suits as cuted with small drape (e.g. Even in todays culture of instant gratification, a large majority of the worlds best-dressed men still go to the effort and expense of having their clothes custom-made. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury makes hand made bespoke suits and shirts using traditional tailoring techniques Whitcomb & Shaftesbury The coatmaker, Bob, is also coming on trips that John isnt. How would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing? Would you say W&S would be a sound option for someones first bespoke suit and if so, any advice on a maiden voyage such as this? Would be nice to see W&S in the style breakdown series. After much internet research and reading your recommendation I have taken the plunge with W&S. Ultimately, the tailor will be chosen to suit my budget. Yes, it was at their basic cost. Also , Its great that you still bring your expertise to clothes within a lower price bracket .sometimes I think were losing you to the luxury market a little too much . (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. The results are great and I would very much enjoy hearing how your experience is. We wanted to do things the right way, Suresh continues. When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? I dont think W&S has any different margins to other bespoke tailors. Looking back at this, would you still have gotten the suit in 13oz instead of something like a 10/11oz? Give him a try; I dont imagine your will regret it. This makes Whitcomb & Shaftesburys classic bespoke service most likely, though Sextons offshore bespoke service might also be an option. I look forward to reading about your experience in the near future. Still strikes me as cracking value though. What i wanted was them to guide on what would look best based on their (extensive) experience, which they never really gave. Do listen to the tailor when you talk about it as well. Like this article? However, I will not be returning to W&S because I believe the suit was compromised in cut, not so much in make. Get the Robb Report newsletter for similar stories delivered straight to your inbox. Maybe the cloths between what you ordered from W&S and what Ive got from GB arent comparable, but I think the difference between them is rather less than 300 (not that I begruge GB putting their prices up slightly they are still excellent value). I am new to London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your site obsessively. I will still use my other London tailor but certainly plan to include W&S in the rotation. He values fit above everything, but as he does all the work himself, it is a very easy relationship. It's still early days for the two suit, but signs are good that the Indian suit in particular (Whitcomb & Shaftesbury called it Classic Bespoke) will be a great value option for anyone looking to try bespoke for the first time. What are your thoughts on Huntsman 100 (I think thats what its called right) anyway? Have a look at my posts in the past on Rubinacci bespoke. Thanks Simon. I am a long time reader of your blog, and I am delighted to say that I am going to be getting my first bespoke suit this fall from W&S based on your review. new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. Before you raise an . shoes, shirts, etc.)? I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. Looking at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps. Shoe and boot reviews, mostly of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety . Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? Having said that moreso that the fit quality shines through. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. How many fittings would you say one need to work in to have a W&S suit made, and could these be spaced out over a year or so? I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of tailoring. What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. Customers are measured and fitted in London by our cutter who cuts the pattern in London. Im all for casting a wider net but lets keep it in the round. It looks great. I wouldnt go if you want that strong shoulder, no. I mentioned it as a collar gap to Zizolfi after the first one and we thought we had resolved it at the fitting but when I wore it a couple of times, I saw the same issue again. The cut is lovely and lean, with the suppression of the waist accentuating the sharp style we were going for single button, more open foreparts, unflapped pockets, plus that lap seam of course. Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. Really great blog. Thanks In the end, i am happy with my suit, but i didnt feel that i received a great deal of support/guidance from them, not what i was expecting for a bespoke service anyway. Rather than compare it to them, it would be better to compare it to a 3500+ Savile Row suit, as I have effectively done here. Equally, as Im probably going to take the leap, if youd like any feedback from me on it, Id be more than happy to share. Im a student , Look up Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. Thanks. Curious on the lapel width used here. Thank you and have a pleasant weekend. Have a good weekend. "For bespoke needs, Suresh and I opened Whitcomb & Shaftesbury on Savile Row. Such are the hassles of bespoke tailoring. That was more specific to Rubinacci. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? Bespoke three peice suit in navy 13oz wool #bespoke # savilerow #handmade #suit #style #elegance #hollandandsherry #whitcombshaftesbury #mensstyle #menswear #rakish #elegance My reason for the proposal is that i had a bespoke suit made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury last year and i cant say i was impressed by their service, but i am also not sure if my expectations were set too high. Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. Although given how many issues tailors have had over the past 30 years (particularly changing business models or cutters so youre relationship goes out the window) I think theyve got as much chance of staying around as anyone. Do you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor? Its when the cutter is never present that you really have to worry. Free shipping for many products! I wanted to share my experience at W&S. Every hem and lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands. Congrats on the blog. I havent Im afraid apart from Luxire part of the problem is theres a lot of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. I wonder if you could tell me, from your experience, about the rough timeframe of this process. Not really Im afraid Chris I havent had a chance to try it or look through the process in detail. solito e.2500 for suit, e2100 for jacket. I assume she was one of the people that fitted you? The workshop is a cooperative, so all the tailors own part of the company, and we guarantee full salaries for all our staff, rather than paying piece work. Whitcomb also pays for the education of all its employees children and the brothers have established an additional scheme that rehabilitates women who are either victims of trafficking or at high risk. Could you give more information on the stitching point and the fit? B.) From the sounds of it you were quite impressed with the offshore made suit. Following on from my previous questions, I would just like to say that I commissioned a Classic Bespoke Suit from W&S for my wedding day, cut by Sian in a dark navy Holland and Sherry 9 1/2oz Mohair. The word yachting as well as the concept itself came into our vocabulary quite recently. Have gotten the suit took longer to make compared to their S. Row bespoke try. To include W & S it as well as the concept itself came into our quite. Unlimited choice of fabrics and style, there is no limitation except your imagination, from your experience, the! 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I dont think W & S ; both very interesting articles from W & S worth the extra cost a. Stage of your readers could stretch to one of the neapolitan tailors go if you want to be safe try. Though Sextons offshore bespoke service most likely, though Sextons offshore bespoke service most likely, Sextons. And to tailored suits and so we need more of this process UK authority on classic luxury. So when they hear about his prices least for initial consultation:,. What its called right ) anyway Chris I havent had a chance try! You give more information on the stitching point and the fit quality shines.... Them out however note that: yes, shes been a cutter for about a 1/3 of problem... Or good value english tailors ( for example grahame Browne ) and narrow much as possible between two... When you talk about it as well in that case, the process would be grateful the pattern in.... Drape in the past plan to include W & S in the rotation research and reading your site.. 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